


We departed base camp, which was about 5,000 feet. Jason had pegged this campsite among his Top Five favorite sites, which is pretty astounding considering the many backpacking trips he's done including scaling 52 of 55 peaks in Colorado at more than 14,000 feet.
The weather turned cloudy, compared to sunshine of the previous two days, and it looked as if rain were imminent. We had to return to the area near the first day's base camp and head back toward the area where we had started just two days ago. Our goal was to reach Lean-To Canyon since we weren't going to make it on the loop. I had feared returning to the same trail that brought us to yesterday's base camp. The path seemed narrow, plus we had to descent through the gulley and slope that we trudged through yesterday.
(The night before, Daniel had snapped the fastener of his backpack's waist strap. Being the engineer that he is, he got rid of the plastic fasteners devised a way to use a couple of the carabiners that were for our harnesses into an improvised belt strap.)
We broke camp and departed at around 9:45 a.m.
Jason prepared hot sausages and eggs.
The first step down the trail was going through the ledge, which was easy. Second step was the short gulley, which was not so easy. Because it was so steep, an almost vertical descent, I let Jason bring down my pack, which was the first and only time he assisted me. He also took pictures and made sure that my footing was secure. In circumstances such as this, words of comfort are most welcome.
My thoughts race in my mind, most of which is to make sure I come out of this alive. Scrapes on my hand and legs are truly indicative of me being alive. Sometimes my hand would grasp the needles of cacti, to which I would grimace in pain. But I do not flinch because I might lose my balance. Sometimes it's better to take the pain and move on. Typically, my hands show the tales of scrapes, form an assortment of sources: jagged rock so sharp that a deep press with my fingertips would cause blood to ooze almost immediately, more needle-like plants that leave spines so thin imbedded in skin that you might need a microscope or magnifying glass to assure yourself that they're in your skin. But if you can't see it, you definitely feel it.
Jason helped to navigate me through some of the rocky terrain. My initial plan was to move high, almost on equal level as the ledge from the base of the gulley, and move across quite a way before heading downward. That worked and I continued my pace onto a group of rocks that formed almost into a ravine.
Once I arrived at the bottom of the slope, we continued back toward the way we got here. I had dreaded traveling this way, but it actually seemed less scary from two days before, probably because the view from my current perspective was of the canyon wall rather than the canyon itself.
We made it through, but along a third of the way we missed the cairn leading the trail higher so we had to backtrack.
Jason and Daniel moved way ahead of me. My movement was slowed by the fierce headwind through the canyon. I could feel the backpack sway a bit, and I took great care to stabilize myself along the narrow path.
I made my way through the end of the trail in the lower canyon, where it was cut off by the 10-foot ledge by the stream. Jason grabbed onto the edge to get my backpack. But it seemed as if he had misjudged the handling and the backpack hung precariously on one arm as the other hand grabbed onto the ledge. Below was a 15-foot drop to the stream. I looked on his face, an expression of concern and bewilderment as he managed to bring the backpack down to the floor of the lower canyon.
Jason later remarked, "I was thinking, "Is this it?' "
We hiked along the stream to the foot of the trailhead that led to Lean-To Canyon. Our ascent would eventually be about 500 feet, through winding trail that opened into a small opening amid canyon walls.
We had started from the trailhead at around 1:30 p.m. By 2 or 2:30 p.m. rain fell upon us. Daniel led while Jason stayed behind to make sure that I was on the right path. He made sure that I avoided slick rock, made wet by the downpour. And there were stretches along the trail that looked scary to pass. One section indicated it had been the scene of a recent runoff, or rock slide, so dirt and rock can be loose. It's always safe to move slowly. With a bit of tailwind, my movement was more cautious, taking one small step after another. The trail was close to the canyon's edge, so it's no joke to act irrationally.
We eventually made camp by an area that probably had been a waterfall many years ago. We took our rain gear out, if we didn't have them on already, and pitched the tent.
We would be eating and sleeping here for the night. Jason cooked spaghetti with tangy tomato sauce by the side of the tent as we huddled inside. After a long day's hike and with rain in the afternoon, that hot meal enlivened us.